Carlos Monsiváis once called it “the temple of Mexican counterculture.” José Agustín referred to it as the “Rock capital.” In both cases the writers highlighted the emblematic aspect of the El Chopo Saturday market for the city’s hidden underground cultures and youth identities.
Every Saturday, on Aldama Street between Sol and Luna, and a few steps from theBuenavista subway station, the el Chopo Cultural Tianguis makes the enormous Vasconcelos library (next door) seem short by comparison. In it you can find extravagantly dressed characters: leather, denim, brass tacks, up-to-the-knee boots, colored stylized hairstyles, make up, tattoos and piercings.
A wide range of youngsters and elder arrive to create a countercultural history: Punks, Rockers, Skaters, Darks, Emos, Rockabillies, Rastas, Metal heads, Cyberpunks, Goths, Deathrockers. All encounter in the same space with a fairly different set of ideologies but guided to the same end: rock and its paraphernalia.
6,000 people a week browse everything from vinyl, to rare classic records: The Beatles, Yes, King Crimson, The Clash, among others; national bands both consolidated and new: Austin TV, Las Ultrasónicas, Café Tacuba, El Haragán. Also you can find literature: from Asimov through Kerouac to Parménides García up until Marx and Nietzsche; mugs, printed shirts, magazines, comics, cult movies and much more. When you reach the end you can find music enthusiasts with records on hand ready to trade or exchange and a bit deep into the tianguis, there is a modest structure designed for live presentations from the independent persuasion and exposition from unknown artists.
All of these elements have made the Chopo a very sui generis place, where even with generational changes and the pushing of the global music industry and its “pirated” forms; the counterculture still resists.
Rock Capital never dies
During the 80s, when the Chopo Cultural Tianguis arose, the motivations of the youth who conceived this space where founded on the exchanging of different music related stuff with the support of artists and independent labels, but above all, in stark opposition to the right-wing society that tried to undermine every manifestation or dissidence.
Thus, this radically different tianguis was founded; in here every underground identity had its place, even with radical beliefs; their love for music united them. Young people paved the way for a new way to live and experience rock.
After intense changes in an ever-growing global commercial city and a new generation of youngsters, 33 years later the Chopo has lived up to the demands of counterculture. This situation has spread rumors that of the eventual doom of Chopo; these views argument that everything in the past was better, piracy and new technologies have finished vinyl, that the new generations have been influenced by consumerist hence that counterculture has weakened.
Nevertheless, rock music (however its genre) has not lost any strength or has not given any signs of fading away from the rebel youth thirsty of new proposals; youngsters that still religiously attend Saturdays the space between Sol and Luna to listen to different music, deal in raucous articles and shelter in the only place in the city where underground culture appropriates a street in broad daylight.
The fight goes on: nonconformist younglings with the system, tired from intolerance, resisting from its possibilities. Here is a documentary where Rockers, intellectuals and tianguistas tell us how the myth around Chopo revolves.
Hernández V. and Núñez (Producers), Arroyo G. (Director). (2008). Poetas músicos y locos [Music Poets and lunatics] [Documentary]. México: DocsDF.
Mexico City is vibrant, vast and very important. Not just in terms of the space it occupies and the stone and brick from it’s made from, but Mexico City greeted more than 30 million visitors last year. That’s more than it’s entire metro-population (though not by much). Let’s look at why they came.
Last year, at about this time, The New York Times had named the city the number one travel destination for 2016. Tourism searches on Google showed Mexico City as not just a Latin American Favorite, but in the top five tourist searches in the world. And of course, people have been asking for the last several years if it wasn’t the Next Paris, or the Next New York or the Next SOMETHING.
The City government set itself to the task of figuring out just why people love coming here. These are the top 15 reasons they came up with, and ultimately they’re the reasons that Mexico City is Latin America’s favorite, and maybe your favorite too!
1) 185 museums, nine archaeological sites and four World Heritage sites? The cultural scene is enormous, rich and varied. There’s something for every kind of cultural traveler.
2) Fairs, festivals, conventions, meetings and extravaganzas cover music, food, movies, books, and trade in every kind of human activity, down to the annual clown convention.
3) Blockbuster events? Last year saw a Formula 1 race, an NFL game or two, the Tour de France, and a free Roger Waters concert in the city center.
4) Chosen for the sixth world C40 Mayors Summit in November of 2016, Mexico City is widely perceived as a world leader in combatting climate change.
5) The Metrobús system, originally based on one running in Bogota, Colombia, is now the biggest in Latin America. Stretching some 125 kms today, in 2017 no less than 90 Alexander Dennis Enviro500 double-decker buses will begin plying the length of Paseo de la Reforma, as Metrobus Line 7 officially opens.
6. The tourist program Sonrisas por tu ciudad, literally “Smiles for your city,” organized by the Secretary for Tourism, has benefited more than 200,000 people.
7. Mexico City’s Central de Abasto (pictured below), after more than 30 years sells 30,000 tons of merchandise (mostly food) and sells to about 30,000 people every day. It’s the largest shopping area in the world.
8. Mexico City was the first Latin American city to join the Rainbow Cities Network, which coordinates city-level actions to protect LGBTI citizens and residents.
9. Mexico City was chosen as the World Capital of Design for 2018, by the World Design Organization.
10. The Centro Histórico is the largest historical city center in Latin America, with 1,500 buildings designated as having historical, cultural, artistic or architectural value. That’s more than most tour guides can handle, but it’s also home the continent’s biggest Metropolitan Cathedral.
11. Mexico City’s first ever Day of the Dead parade was celebrated by more than 250,000 marchers, band members, onlookers and, yes, zombies.
12. The city’s El Médico en tu Casa program puts a “Doctor in Your Home.” It’s already recognized in America, Asia, and Europe, for bringing health services closer to people who can’t easily visit hospitals or clinics.
13. Mexico City also began the first Specialized Center for the Management of Diabetes anywhere in Latin America.
14. The Ecobici system (pictured below) is the biggest public bike system in Latin America, with 452 cycle stations and about 35 million trips made by 200,ooo riders every year.
15. And finally, the good old underground Metro network is the biggest in Latin America, too. With 12 lines 226 km in total length, about 5 million people ride it every day.
Source: CDMX government, with information from International CDMX and the 4th Governmental Report CDMX, 2016.
Casa Madero may have been the first winery in the Americas, founded way back in 1597, and way up in Coahuila. But Mexico’s predominant “beer culture” has always given wine producers something of a long shadow to grow up in. Aguascalientes, Querétaro, Guanajuato, Zacatecas and Chihuahua all produce respectable wines, but it’s been the environs of Ensenada (the Guadalupe Valley, the Santo Tomas Valley, and the Ojos Negros Valley) that have really busted the Mexican wine scene out onto international lists of “respectability.” Some parts Coahuila (the Valley Of Parras, and Cuatro Ciénagas in particular) still hold their own – but most wine enthusiasts agree, Baja’s got the wine to beat.
Mexico exports wine around the world. According to the Mexican Wine Council, about 400 brands of wine are currently being produced in the country, and these increasingly appear on the international lists as being wines to watch (and to taste). But those lists aren’t everything. Even the most sophisticated drinkers know today that plenty is coming each year from Mexican wineries that’s worth taking note of.
Yes, you can still find plenty of good Mexican vintages mixed in with the international offerings on the shelves at Liverpool. But the wine shops below are pretty active at pushing good wines, from Mexico, onto more Mexican tables.
Vinoteca has three locations in and around the city and carries a wide range of Mexican wines, and still more around the country. They do a fair internet trade in wines too, but stopping in lets you pick the brains of their knowledgeable staff.
La Contra, also with shops all over the country, is one of the city’s leading advocates for the Mexican wine industry. With a capital location in Roma, it’s an easy and relaxed place to pick up recommendations, or indeed, to sample some of the best bottles coming in.
Address: Álvaro Obregón 130, local # 10, Colonia Roma Norte
Telephone: 5564 0966
Website | Facebook
Á de Acento offers a very well-regarded restaurant, but the gourmet shop offers plenty that’s pure Mexican and well worth a bottle or two. In fact, prices are very reasonable, but there’s also usually something special hidden away in the shelves that inquiring customers will be very pleased to find.
Another in the list of combo restaurant and gourmet shops, Amaya has made a big splash with their list of “vinos raros.” Far from weird, many of them are fabulous. They’re also generally available in the shop, no reservation necessary and many of the best are, in fact, domestically produced!
Don’t expect friendly service. La Europea is still trying to figure out in which decade they’re doing business. But for all the wood-boxed bacalao these people sling during the holidays, they’ve always got a ton of good wine, too. With a good number of branches in and around the city, calling them one of the best wine shops in Mexico might be a stretch, but they do a lot of business, and for that, they always offer a ton of good Mexican wines too.
Si Mon is run by the chefs at Broka Bistrot, practically next door. And the emphasis is on local, good, and even inspiring wines. One of the best things about shopping at a wine bar is after all, that there is usually a bottle open. And for that, including Si Mon in a list of the best wine shops is practically a given.
Main Photo Above: Aborigen Valle Seco, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Courtesy of La Contra