On casual visits to Tlatelolco, one may not realize the depth of the majesty at one’s feet. Beneath today’s avenues and the enormous apartment blocks, there is still, always, the memory of one of the most striking islands of the old Mexico-Tenochtitlan. It’s still a site so relevant to Mexico City, that the idea of Cuauhtémoc here asking Cortes to kill him, is practically a living echo. That the final Aztec warriors gave their lives, here, to a lost cause, could have been what happened yesterday.
The very soil of Tlatelolco bears so much history that archaeologists have almost considered excavating it just too important to the capital district. A few years ago, the suspicion that only a part of the pre-Hispanic city had been unearthed was confirmed, with the clarity of a bell. Excavations in the neighboring Colonia Guerrero, led to the in 2016 discovery of the base of an immense pyramid. Once a sacred precinct, it had been built some 650 years ago and dedicated to the worship of Echécatl-Quetzalcoatl, a relentless god of the wind.
The vestiges of the temple, made from tezontle and stucco, are well preserved. Three meters below the pavement they seem eager to tell their story to city residents and to see light again. In the dark these many centuries, a supermarket had been built on top, and this was recently demolished to give way to a planned larger shopping center.
In addition to this impressive architectural vestige, the site has also revealed a series of tools from the time: spines of maguey, the winches of looms, pottery shards and even the remains of a newborn baby. All the pieces together help to explain this past, full of enigmas.
The discovery by specialists from the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) was such that the excavations have answered many archaeological questions. The pre-Hispanic monument all but gives an entirely new face to the already emblematic neighborhood. Around the pyramid base, a wall is planned with glass observatory windows so that visitors can safely view the entire excavated area.
On every walk you take in Mexico City, remember that, always, beneath your feet are likely the memories and monuments, of people just like you, who walked in these same spectacular places.
Main Image (above): La Jornada
Though the internet makes lots more information available to lots more people, Mexico City libraries have simply not been supplanted. Charged with continually re-inventing themselves, and their places in the public imagination, one can still encounter eras gone by and great historical minds in a library as in few other places.
Knowledge, after all, belongs to everyone. Opening a book, reading it at a study, or just meeting in the silence of one these Mexico City libraries enhances concentration, and provides a welcome respite from everything going on out there in the world.
Of all Mexico City libraries, the oldest were part of the church and one or another of its offshoot organizations. Among these was the Colegio de Santa Cruz de Tlatelolco, founded in the 1530s and surviving today as the Biblioteca José María Lafragua. Most of these ecclesiastical libraries were not truly open to the public, and Mexico had to wait for the National Library of Mexico, inaugurated by Benito Juárez in 1867 to enjoy the benefits of a truly public library system.
The list below is intended to let you enjoy some of that system, too.
Opened just ten years ago, in 2006, the Vasconcelos is visited by thousands for the sheer spectacle of its innovative design. Graced by the iconic whale from artist, Gabriel Orozco, it’s always a good library for art and visual spectacle. The facade retains something of a colonial appearance, but for sheer scale, and jaw-dropping space, the interior must be experienced.
We’ve written a lot about it in these pages, but the UNAM library with the Juan O’Gorman murals remains one of the most outstanding of all Mexico City libraries. As a UNESCO site with some 428,000 volumes in the collection, it’s the biggest in Mexico, but lots of folks visit just to see the facade and the surrounding grounds.
Opened by Benito Juárez in 1867, there’s still a good one million books inside, today administered by the folks from UNAM. Originally located in the San Agustín church in the city center, the current building was opened in 1979. Geometric, and massive, it’s an extraordinary place to visit.
Specializing in economic materials, this collection of some 86,350 books and 114,852 journals is administered by the Secretary of Finance and Public Credit. Founded in 1928, it’s one of the cities true public art spectacles. Inside the main nave of the old Oratory of San Felipe Neri “El Nuevo,” the baroque façade outside is just the beginning. Inside, the murals are futuristic, and not to be missed.
One of Centro’s truly outstanding historical buildings, for centuries it was the convent of the Clarisas from the 16th century. Today it’s something like a “Library of Congress” with a stunning collection of publications and artifacts, but also with a lush, deep, dark intellectual interior, that beckons from centuries past.
Address: Tacuba 29, Centro Histórico
Photographs this page: Flickr – Creative Commons
Mexico City’s Tepito neighborhood has for a millennia history offered resistance, rebellion, and hope. Tenochtitlan relegated dissidents to Tepito’s crooked alleys. The “brave neighborhood,” even hundreds of years later, is still marginalized and bent on survival. Somehow residents seem to bear that history in the very DNA.
With a reputation for violence, deprivation, and overcrowding, some of the great characters of Mexican history have come from Tepito. The cradle of Mexican boxing, in the 1970s an important literary movement emerged in Tepito, and the neighborhood has contributed as much to the culture of the city and country as have many, much wealthier places.
Among all the stories of people whose hard work is performed with an enviable dignity, there are thousands of women who carry out similar work for their families. Resident Mayra Valenzuela Rojas remarked, “In Tepito there’s a matriarchy (…) Every woman has her own story. Each of us is a spark, but together we are lighting a candle for Tepito.”
German photographer, Anja Jensen, is currently exhibiting her work in a show called “Ciudadanas-Caminamos a oscuras” (Citizens-We Walk in the Dark). Having spent months in Tepito, she’s documented the women challenging the stereotypes of the neighborhood.
Jensen was assaulted and threatened, but she was also clothed and cared for by the women who opened their stories and lives to her. The result is a series photographs, “Las Cabronas de Tepito,” (Bad Girls of Tepito) a collective portrait of the matriarchy whose fervor makes the neighborhood better and regularly improves the lives of the people living there.
The photographs will be exhibited through February 12, 2017, as part of the Mexico-Germany Dual Year, at the German Pavilion on the Plaza Rio de Janeiro, in Roma Norte.